Blog 101: Little Sheep, Big Lion
Contents
Rearview Mirror - Summary of the past weekHeadlights - Our schedule as to where we will be heading
Note: click on any photo for a larger image/slideshow)
Rearview Mirror
Sunday: Cowboy Country
Mid-morning we pulled out of Cortez and drove the 115 miles to Ridgway State Park, five miles north of the town of Ridgway. We took Highway 145 through Dolores, passed through Rico, passed by Telluride, turned east at Placer, and north at Ridgway. We were fortunate to reserve a site overlooking a pond adjacent to the Uncompahgre River--just gorgeous. We spent time relaxing outside admiring the fly fishermen and watching kids play around and in the water. There are trails all over and the mountain views are fantastic. This is one nice State Park. Fans of Western movies might recognize the Ridgway area from viewing How the West Was Won and John Wayne’s True Grit, which were filmed here.
Monday: Back to Durango
We had business that required us to go back Durango, so early Monday morning we got onto the San Juan Skyway and headed south. Just 19 miles down from our campground is the town of Ouray, billed as the American Switzerland--a beautiful town in a stunning setting. Just south of Ouray is the 12-mile stretch that is referred to as the Million Dollar Highway. I’m not sure of the reason behind the name, but it sure provided million-dollar views as we drove along, up and up around curve and curve with snowy mountains above, flowing waterfalls across, and deep valleys below. My hunch is that the contractor for this job started running out of money at this stretch of road. Many of the most extreme curves over really deep fall-offs had no guardrails, and, at some of the most door-handle-grabbing sections, the pavement seemed to be a couple feet narrower than normal. No wonder many RV drivers avoid this road like caster oil, preferring to detour many miles to travel less stressful roads! At over 11,000 feet we crossed Red Mountain Pass, later Coal Bank Pass, and finally Molas Pass before reaching Durango. This is one gorgeous drive. We stopped along the side of the road to shoot this old truck.
On our return trip just south of Coal Bank Pass, we saw a small bighorn sheep jump down from a rock onto Highway 550. The car in front of us luckily slowed way down, and I pulled off just 20 feet from this large lamb. He let me shoot him for at least five minutes before he methodically bound from rock to rock back up the mountain. Handsome fellow, isn’t he?
Little Molas Lake
Later in our journey we stopped at Little Molas Lake to enjoy the view of this postcard setting.
We then stopped in Silverton to check things out. Shortly after we finished lunch, the Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge train pulled into town. We walked down and took a few photos. Here is my favorite.
The Million Dollar Highway always requires vigilance, but it is far less stressful going north rather than south, as you can hug the mountainside instead of treading on the edge. So this portion of road was child’s play compared to the morning’s trek.
We drove around Ouray, and when the lightning started we darted into the Historical Museum of Ouray County for an enjoyable and enlightening hour learning about the local area. They had some beautiful flowers showcasing their facility.
Tuesday: Really Big Cat
The day started with a brisk, one-hour walk starting at the edge of our campsite and winding up and back the Uncompahgre River. I took a few shots of flowers along the way. Here is one of a false lupine.
Later in the day, we took a scouting car ride into the Uncompahgre National Forest. I was hoping to find some potential trails for hikes later in the week--typical forest roads, rocky, narrow, and steep, with switchbacks that provided the occasional wonderful view. Fourteen miles up the road (close to an hour’s driving), we turned a sharp corner to see what first appeared to be a dead elk with its mother/sibling standing by its side.
As we approached within 30 feet, we discovered that the standing creature was not an elk but a really big mountain lion who had just made a kill. Finally noticing our presence, he slowly raised up from chomping on the carcass and looked our way as blood ran down his chin. This guy appeared to be in robust maturity, tall at the shoulders, square of head, and sporting a tail that looked long enough to jump rope with. Two big bounds and this master of the woods was out of sight, probably watching us and waiting to get back to his lunch. Although I had my big camera on my lap, the three-second or so delay in taking action meant it was too late!
Wednesday: One More Time
Although the odds of seeing the Big Cat again were phenomenally against us, we couldn’t resist the lure of trying. So before dawn we re-traced our steps to the location of our sighting the day before. No carcass, no cat, but we continued to drive up, seeing patches of snow and numerous deer and elk. At one point we saw a newborn baby elk hobble across the road testing its legs as it followed its mother in retreat from our presence. We drove past the pass and went on and on all the way to Silver Jack Reservoir.
Here we unloaded from the car, and with the Kids in the lead we hiked for an hour along the lake, through a meadow, and then up into the woods. Our path ended at the dam where we decided to walk the dirt road back to our point of origin. Another beautiful hike with head-turning sights everywhere.
Box Canyon
Late afternoon we went to Box Canyon, housed within the city limits of Ouray. Along with a beautiful waterfall, Box Canyon is one of those rare places on the planet where black swifts nest. Apparently the swifts had just returned from their winter migration in Brazil and had not yet started their nests. The photographic challenge is that the black swifts are black and swift--we didn’t see a one, but enjoyed our visit.
Thursday: Telluride
Another scenic drive took us to the famous ski town of Telluride. We started by driving the streets lined with quaint shops and well-groomed houses (and an old vehicle or two), and then drove to the edge of town by the old mill to take in the view of Bridal Veil Falls. Next, we parked and walked the streets before taking the free tram to Mountain Village, Telluride’s sister city. This was the Pups first tram ride and they handled the affair with calm and dignity, just as you would expect of these worldly canines.
On our return home we took a diversion off of 145 taking Fall Creek Road south, down to the Woods Lake recreation area, another isolated location. Driving into the campground we saw this marmot.
Friday: On to Montrose
We took the short but pretty drive to Montrose. Here we had a very enjoyable evening visiting with Marge and David, our camp host friends from last year at Highline Lake State Park.
Saturday: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
Early in the morning we drove the 20 miles to Black Canyon National Park. We parked at the campground and took the two-mile Rim Rock Nature Trail along the canyon wall trek to the Visitor’s Center and back. The Pups enjoyed the walk, and we had some nice views of the canyon. After that we took the scenic park drive stopping at some of the lookouts. We ended our time in the park by taking the East Portal Road down to the bottom on the canyon and on to the dam. Just as we turned onto this stretch, we saw this female dusty grouse cross the road.
This is Jan’s kind of road--hairpin turns and 16 percent grades.
Once again we ended the day with a nice visit with Marge and David talking about old times and new adventures.
Bonus Pic
Here is a pic from last week’s Anastazi ruin, Lowry Pueblos, visit that I neglected to put in last week’s blog. I really like this image, as it communicates the feeling of isolation and foreboding.
RV Park Review--Great RV Resource
Before I book a park I find myself going more and more to www.rvparkreview.com to get opinions from others who have stayed there. In fact, this is now my main resource. I was starting to feel guilty about using this great tool without contributing anything, so I am now writing reviews after each stay. If you are an RVer, I strongly recommend it.
Wonderful week.
Headlights
June 10-12: One Mile Camp, Gunnison, COJune 13-15: Chalk Creek Park, Nathrop CO
June 16-17: ???
June 18-22: Chatfield State Park, Littleton, CO
June 24-27: Cheyenne Mt. State Park, Colorado Springs, CO
June 28-29: Colorado Campground, Pike National Forest
June 30 to July 4: Mary’s Campground, Estes Park
July 5 to 7: St. Vrain State Park
July 8-12: Travel East
July 13-14: McHenry, IL
July 15: Homer Glen, IL
July 16-17: Travel
July 18-???: Traverse City, MI
See you next week.
Comments
Blog 99: Slow Trains and Rugged Trails
Contents
Rearview Mirror - Summary of the past weekHeadlights - Our schedule as to where we will be heading
Note: click on any photo for a larger image/slideshow)
Rearview Mirror
Hikes and Day Trips
We thoroughly enjoyed our stay in Durango. Along with business, each day was filled with hikes and road trips (short and long). Here are a few shots from the first part of the week.
Shooting Trains
The famous Durango-Silverton narrow-gauge train runs parallel to highway 550, just the other side of the road from our park. Twice in the morning we heard the train whistle as the 8:30 and 9:30 trains chugged and puffed their way to Durango. Twice each day in the afternoon we heard them return. Thursday morning Jan and I walked the five minutes from BERT to the train tracks and set up our photo gear (on the tracks) awaiting the train. At 8:50 a.m. as planned, this old steam engine chugged north and I took a few head-on shots while Jan shot me shooting the train.
Note: We thought of tying Jan on the tracks (just like in the movies), and I would take shots as the train approached. However, since I had no rope, we decided against it. :’>
On to Vallacito Lake
After shooting the train, we broke camp and were out of Alpen Rose by 10:15 taking the short trip to Vallacito Lake and Blue Spruce RV Park. We stayed here three years ago and just love the place--trees, mountains, water--it has it all.
After setting up, we drove the half-mile to the San Juan Forest Vallacito Creek Trail trailhead and headed out into the Weminuche Wilderness for an hour-and-half hike.
Friday: The Challenging Hike
By 6:17 a.m., the four of us were at the Lake Eileen trailhead. The air was heavy with the sweet smell of pines, and the temperature was holding the line between light and medium jacket attire. The literature said it was a “challenging” two-mile trek up the mountain, but well worth the effort to make it to Lake Eileen. The literature was right on both counts. Our four-mile round trip took a full four hours. We walked up and up the rocky path full of switchback turns, going over/under/around fallen trees that blocked our path. With the constant bubbling of Vallecito Creek in the background, we stopped several times straining to locate the source of the sounds of buzzing hummers, singing mountain bluebirds, and tapping three-toed woodpeckers.
Twice we had to cross the speedy creek--one time the only option for the Pups was to walk over the racing water about 20 feet on the top of a fallen pine. Mountain Mitzy and Jerry the Wild were up to the task, fearlessly walking the dead trunk in the same fashion of the Great Farini high-wire crossing Niagara Falls.
Here are a few more shots from this gorgeous, yet trying, hike.
Saturday: Even More Challenging Hike
After breakfast, we took a 20-mile driving tour to Lemon Reservoir to see the sights, scope out possible future campgrounds, and hike the Burnt Timber Trail. All we knew about the trail is that it eventually hooked up to the Colorado Trail. Well, if we thought the trip the day before was challenging, then this baby was grueling! After 50 minutes of what seemed like straight up, we turned around and found some meadow trails that were more to our liking.
Wonderful week.
Headlights
May 27-30: Blue Spruce Campground Vallacito, COMay 31-June 2: Sundance RV Park, Cortez, CO
June 3-7: Ridgway State Park, Ridgway, CO
June 8-9: Cedar Creek RV Park, Montrose, CO
June 10-13: One Mile Camp, Gunnison, CO
June 14-17: ???
June 18-22: Chatfield State Park, Littleton, CO
June 24-27: Cheyenne Mt. State Park, Colorado Springs, CO
June 28 on: ???
See you next week.
Blog 98: Durango
Contents
Rearview Mirror - Summary of the past weekHeadlights - Our schedule as to where we will be heading
Note: click on any photo for a larger image/slideshow)
Rearview Mirror
Sunday: Mother’s Day Adventure
After a brisk walk in the 34-degree daylight and breakfast, everyone loaded into the car to celebrate Mother’s Day with a hike and a road trip.
Golden Eagle Encounter
Within 300 yards of leaving San Luis State Park, a mature (meaning really big) Golden Eagle swooped up from the desert directly to our right then cut across our path no more than six feet off the ground and within six feet of our car windshield. We could see every feather detail of this mottled brown giant as we barely missed a collision. I’d had my camera on my lap, but had no photo op during this three seconds of raw action. In my mind I hoped our new friend would circle back, but he kept on flying. Added to the consumption of a pot of strong coffee, I was buzzed for the day.
Zapata Falls Hike
Just five miles south of the Dunes is the Zapata Falls Recreation Area run by the BLM (Bureau of Land Management). We took the three-mile path up the bumpy, curvy gravel road, ascending a couple thousand feet in the effort. At the trailhead we trekked up the old stream bed, stopping off to enjoy Zapata Falls. From here we continued up the mountain, climbing another mile before retracing our steps. Along the way we had panoramic views of the Dunes and the entire San Juan Valley. Wonderful hike.
Jan decided she’d like to see some yet-explored sights for Mother’s Day, so instead of turning south at Mosca we turned north.
Colorado Gator Farm
After careful but short deliberation, we passed on visiting the Colorado Gator Farm, continuing on past Hooper.
UFO
However, just a mile or so past Hooper we were “forced” to turn into the UFO Watchtower just as though a cosmic energy took possession of our Honda Element. What a place!
Ute Theater and Cultural Center
We continued going north on 17 with mountains on all sides to look at and not much else. We took a left at the junction of 285, deciding to explore the town of Saguache. As we turned down the main drag of this old town of 500 residents, I decided I wanted a cup of coffee to go. Pulling into a parking spot, I walked across the street to the local cafe. When I returned, Jan had found/created a new lifelong friend named Denise, the proprietor of the Ute Theater and Cultural Center. She had been drinking Mimosas outside of her establishment and had invited Jan inside to view the snack bar, wine bar, and old-time theatre…
Back in the car we returned home to the Park via Center, Hooper, and Mosca.
Monday: Breaking Camp
After four days, we had seen most all the sites in this area we had wanted to see. So by 7:45 a.m. we were on the road out in the brisk morning sun. We took the back roads all the way to Highway 160 West. As an example of the remoteness of our travels, even going 35 miles an hour for a big stretch, we drove over 30 miles with no one coming up behind us. Talk about stress-free driving.
Tuesday: Durango
We started the day with a downtown walk and stops at the Colorado Wildlife and BLM (Bureau of Land Management) offices to get ideas for hikes and locations for spotting wildlife. Later in the afternoon we took a road trip checking out both the town of Mancos and the Mancos State Park. Adjoining our campground is a ranch where horses run.
Wednesday: Junction Creek
By 6:45 a.m. we were at the Junction Creek trailhead of the Colorado Trail at the base of the San Juan Forest. We took a two-hour hike up Colorado’s most famous trail, then drove to the top of the world to Animas Overlook where we took in a vista of tall mountains, forests, and valleys.
Late afternoon we scouted out our hike for the next day.
Thursday: Hermosa Trail
This morning we took the high-altitude Hermosa Trail in the San Juan Forest.
Friday: Scenic Skyway Trip
Took an hour walk along the Animas River.
Early afternoon we took a 50-mile drive up Highway 550, part of the San Juan Scenic Skyway all the way to Silverton. Oh, yes, scenic it is! Made several stops along the way scouting out future hikes and future campgrounds.
Saturday: Navajo Country
Late morning we took a road trip south into the Ute Reservation, checking out Ignacious, Arboles, and driving through Navajo State Park, considering it for a stay in the future.
Wonderful week.
Headlights
May 20-23: Alpen Rose RV Park, Durango, COMay 24-30: Blue Spruce Campground, Vallacito, CO
May 31-June 2: Sundance RV Park, Cortez, CO
June 3-7: Ridgway State Park, Ridgway, CO
June 8-9: Cedar Creek RV Park, Montrose, CO
June 10-13: One Mile Camp, Gunnison, CO
June 14-17: ???
June 18-22: Chatfield State Park, Littleton, CO
June 24-27: Cheyenne Mt. State Park, Colorado Springs, CO
June 28 on: ???
See you next week.